Sunday, October 18, 2009

Towards Tuamoto

Friday: On the way to Fatu Hiva, to see the least visited of the Marquesas islands (on request). Sighting a huge ray, cruising with it's scary mouth open. (We are still waiting for the pictures, internet connection (apart from the Iridium) is a scarce commodity in French Polynesia).

Sunday: The rain turned into a deluge. The planned anchorage at Fatu Hiva would have been too exposed to the westerly wind - anchoring in the bay of Hiva Oa instead, which in the circumstances was like anchoring in a mud pool. Holed up, enjoying food and board games.

Monday: Reporting the second dorado - a big one.

Later on Monday: Making fairly good speed from Marquesas towards Tuamoto (Raroia).

Tuesday: Deliberately slowing down, in order to arrive at Raroia at dawn. Question of the day: Fresh fish for supper or fish from the freezer?

Wednesday: Raroia. Entrance through the pass went fine, in spite of the strong countercurrent. Anastasia the only visiting yacht at the anchorage. Everyone very friendly.

Thursday: Snorkelling at a coral reef in the lagoon of Raroia. A living reef with fantastic colours.

Friday: Up early in order to reach the next atoll before sunset. Anchor stuck. Enrolled three young local free-divers, who could confirm that the chain had tangled around a couple of coral heads and give directions for disentengling. All in French.

Saturday: Makemo. Arrived yesterday at sundown. The water in the atoll pass roiling like a witch kettle. Amazing countercurrents in these passes. Still no internet access: you can only buy it in the local post office, which is open on weekdays = Monday.

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